Cycling through the French countryside, you will quickly notice what appear to be tombstones at regular intervals along the roads. The top is usually painted yellow and displays the number of the road you are on. The rest of the stone may display a kilometer number with an arrow pointing the direction to the next village.
The French call these ‘tombstones’ bornes. The word borne in French has multiple meanings. Look what I found on the Cambridge Dictionary web page: no wonder learning a language is so difficult.
borne translate: marker, limit, kilometer, narrow-minded, bollard, terminal, narrow, dull.
The bornes are placed at 1 kilometer intervals, so when I’m cycling on flat terrain I see one every 2 minutes or so. But it is when I am climbing one of the many cols that the bornes really get interesting.
On a climb up a col or a mont or an Alpe the bornes provide a wide variety of information, depending on how much the local Department of Transportation supervisor likes cycling. The borne might tell you how far it is to the summit, what the current elevation is, what the elevation of your goal at the top is, and the average gradient of the next 1000 meters of pavement. This last figure can be a mite depressing if you are getting kind of tired after an hour of climbing and are informed that for the next kilometer you will be confronting a 10% slope.
Here is a sample from a climb I’ve done twice, once from each direction:

This helpful borne is informing me that my current elevation is 1030 meters. Since I know the summit is almost 2000 meters that means I have a lot of climbing to do over the 12 kilometers of road. And the next kilometer is going to average a whopping 11% gradient. It is going to take me at least 7 minutes until I see the next borne. The Col de la Madeleine from this side is 19 kilometers long, so when I went by this marker I had already been climbing for just under an hour. Maybe the bornes are a little TMI.
The borne at the summit, when all the climbing is finished, makes a really good photo opportunity, assuming you make it to the top without needing a sag. Here I am at a borne I’ve visited 4 times over the years: the highest point in the Cevennes.


You can purchase miniature replicas of the bornes to take home with you, and on my most recent trip I decided to buy as many as I could find from climbs I’ve done. Along with my relief maps of the Cevennes and Mont Ventoux, and the delightful caricature 44 | 5 commissioned as a gift for Stoker and me, the bornes are displayed on the French Wall in my study.


I couldn’t find every borne I wanted. I guess there are supply chain issues in France too. But I got stones for most of the famous climbs I’ve ridden up, and if I can find some of the ones I’m missing (Col de Vars, anyone? Mont Aigoual?) I’ll just slide the rest closer together to make room. Great souvenirs of some wonderful rides.

























